May’s second half has so much potential for new plantings and harvests. No dig makes it easier because as gross speeds up, we have less time to deal with weeds. And if you have been keeping up with removing the odd few perennials, and hoeing new germinations when they’re very small, this should not be too difficult.
Please see my latest newsletter for gardening ideas as summer approaches.
It’s an exciting time. And my Spacings video has ideas for inter-planting.
Before your summer plantings of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, aubergines, melons and so forth, it’s a good time to spread the annual dose of compost. This year we used the contents of last year’s hotbed, so that’s one year old horse manure. With a little mushroom compost on top, and some green waste compost on the paths.
Garlic is growing strongly. At this time last year we started losing green leaves to the orange spots of rust. There is not too much rust at present, but it is spreading The first photo shows interplants of coriander. When garlic is spaced in rows like this, you can intersow or interplant many vegetables, see my new video.
This is an experiment to see how it can work with early planting of tomatoes outside and with fleece over. We shall put stakes in, in about a week, after removing the fleece – this is in the small garden
Pests
As with the word weeds, this is a relative term description. For most of us however, slugs can be highly destructive and my recommendation is to reduce any places where they can hide in dry conditions. That becomes the base, for foraging in the Dumpert conditions at night.
I have noticed some slug damage, for example to the turnips below. I had harvested one of the four and there was a slug in the hole. See my webpage about coping with slugs.
The second photo has radish with leaves eaten by flea beetles, even though they were growing under mesh. That cover is quite old and had too many holes. Flea beetles love small brassica leaves. That’s why I do not sow any salad rocket, mizuna or pak choi until August.
Wild rocket is prolific in May. This is Athena, sown September in a tray in the greenhouse, then pricked into my CD small module cells, then potted to 9cm pots in November, still in the greenhouse. We planted it outside late February and this is one plant!
Spacing is 30cm, there is a fine mesh cover against flea beetle and we keep cutting until July.
Multisown turnips and one of the four harvested has left a hole, ideal for the slug!
Typical flea beetle damage on young brassica leaves, many small holes and often perfectly round
Mid May at Homeacres
Misty May morning, my trial beds are on the left and the no dig one nearest is looking strong, compared to dig on its left. There is not a lot of space for the many new plantings soon happening.
Charlotte potatoes have been in for one month and they are from homesaved seed. We shall pull compost around them this week in case of ground frost. Behind is rye sown last October, for making bread!
An interplant of spring onion between celeriac, with the onions coming ready before celeriac need all the space. They are under thermacrop for protection from rabbits.
21 thoughts on “Spring unfolds to summer, May’s second half”
Hello Charles!
I apologize for the irrelevant question, but:
All ericaceous compost for blueberries available in my area contains peat, which I want to avoid. Would it be a bad idea to mulch blueberries with regular compost, because of the higher pH in the compost? Some say that regular compost ‘burns’ blueberries. What do you think?
Hi Nikolaj
I gave up trying to grow blueberries because my soil is alkaline and that’s exactly the problem. Compost and soil over pH about 6.5 means the plants stop growing and even die.
I see no option but using the peat compost and if it was me I would do that. There are far worse things going on in the world than using a bit of peat.
I apologize for the irrelevant question, but:
You write in your book to use ericaceous compost for blueberries, but everything available in my area contains peat, which I want to avoid. Some years ago I planted blueberries in pure sawdust as an experiment, and now I want to ‘top it’ with compost – would this be a bad idea to idea with blueberries, because of the higher pH in the compost? Some say that regular compost ‘burns’ blueberries. What do you think?
Hi Charles,
I’ve taken on my first allotment and in December I made 6 no dig beds with mushroom compost and covered with black plastic to kill off the weeds. During March/April I planted first and second earlies as well as main crop potatoes through the plastic. All seem to be growing well but the soil under the plastic feels very dry. Should I give each plant a good water or can I assume they are finding enough moisture deeper down?
Thank you for all your blogs/videos and advice. I’m thoroughly enjoying this new adventure into no dig gardening. What a revelation! With very best wishes Sandra
Hi Sandra
The weather is exceptional and although your potatoes are growing well, they will soon benefit from some water if you have it there, stick a hose through each hole. Or water generally and it flows mostly into the planting holes.
Hi, Charles, I am interested that you have planted tomatoes, in the small garden, next to potatoes. I thought it was not encouraged, as they are from the same family.
Well spotted.
“It is not encouraged”, by whom I wonder… !!
I see absolutely no reason to worry.
Potato harvest will be around 10th July then tomato plants have room to root further.
I’ve just watched your May video and noticed that you haven’t covered your carrots and parsnips from root fly. I thought now was the danger time. Not that I have many to cover! ONly 4 of my 9 rows of carrots came to anything and the parsnips didn’t emerge at all despite constant watering. I’m thinking of waiting until the weather changes to re-sow as it just feels to dry for them. Would you agree? Thank you!
I have some covered and some not covered. Find that the damage from root flies in June is less bad than October.
I would sow parsnipsany time in dry soil, then they will appear when (if!) it next rains.
Having just become the proud owner of a Charles Dowding Dibber (bought during the Alhampton Open Garden Day) I have been searching for information regarding the spacing markers on the Dibber? I can’t find anything on the site here except for a redirection to the Garden Imports website. The only thing they say is: “This latest model features grooves notched into the timber at precise intervals specified by Charles.” Are they forever to remain enigmatic? Would love to know how to use these secret markings!!
😂 Interesting thanks Simon, we are revamping the shop and shall add this info – bands at 6, 9, 12, 14in correspond to many common spacings eg multisown radish, all salad plants, multisown onions and celeriac respectively.
Hi Charles, i’m In my first no dig spring and things are growing away well, although perhaps a bit behind you, i’m on the coast in north Lancs. The flea beetles have enjoyed my turnip leaves, but left my Calabrese alone, however the heads on the calabrese are small and loose. They didn’t seem ready to pick and they are now flowering. They certainly look nothing like shop bought calabrese. I’ve had a look around online and the only advice I found was that they need to be well watered? Have you any ideas on where i’ve gone wrong? I’ve written off my spring crop but had planned to grow a second crop later this year. Cheers Ian
Hello Ian, that sounds pretty good for a first spring. I’m pretty sure that your calabrese size is from a varietal issue, and many of the non-hybrids do something like you describe, in my experience. If you want the big, domed head, choose varieties such as Marathon, Ironman and Belstar. My plants are large and not yet heading.
Hi Charles, thanks for your reply, much appreciated, the Calabrese I was growing was a Thompson & Morgan variety ‘Green Sprouting ‘. I’ll have a look for one of the varieties you mention for my second crop.
Other than the Calabrese things are going really well 👍 you may remember I wrote to you recently about my Savoy cabbages that were running to seed (You pointed out that I’d sowed them too late) I lost a few, but 4 of them are hearting up and they are looking fantastic, I’m even using some of the large outer leaves in stir fry’s etc. So far no dig has been a big success and I,ve got a couple of friends started as well after spreading the word.
As I continue my no dig studies i’ve been reading the work of F C King ‘is Digging Necessary ‘ I assume you are aware of him? He talks a lot about using sawdust, is this something you’ve tried, or have a view on? Cheers Ian
All good to hear Ian.
I’m surprised by the savoys!
Yes F.C.King is the hero of mine. A well-known gardener and writer of books, yet his trials with and explanations about No Dig were pretty much ignored by the gardening establishment. That has motivated me to make more effort with social media, and reach enough people that this beautiful approach gets the attention it deserves.
Sawdust was a bit of a thing in the 1940s-70s, partly I think because there was no woodchip as we know it today.
King was also a great advocate of horse manure because that’s what he had access to, and he observed the wasteful results of using it when digging.
You write in your book to use ericaceous compost for blueberries, but everything available in my area contains peat, which I want to avoid. Some years ago I planted blueberries in pure sawdust as an experiment, and now I want to ‘top it’ with compost – would this be a bad idea to idea with blueberries, because of the higher pH in the compost?
And what do you say about herbs like thyme, rosemary and oregano, who commonly are said to like dry, nutrient-poor soil – can I use compost for these, and what ratio of compost to another material would you reccomend for these herbs to use in containers?
Thank you for your dedication to teaching others no-dig!
Hello! I hate to ambush with a non-video related question, but I can’t seem to find another official method for contact other than commenting. In November I purchased the digital planting calendar, and it has been such an enormous help! I was definitely always too late with everything before that! My question is, up until about three weeks ago I could browse the entire thing whenever I wanted, any month and info. Now all of a sudden, all the months are blurred out with a logo over them except July. It’s like it’s showing a trial version or preview instead of the entire thing. Is there a way to remedy this? We still have a lot of year and planting to go and I want to ensure I am on top of things – hence the purchase! Thank you so much for any help you can provide!
Michelle
Hello! I hate to ambush with a non-video related question, but I can’t seem to find another official method for contact other than commenting. In November I purchased the digital planting calendar, and it has been such an enormous help! I was definitely always too late with everything before that! My question is, up until about three weeks ago I could browse theventire thing whenever I wanted, any month and info. Now all of a sudden, all the months are blurred out with a logo over them except July. It’s like it’s showing a trial version or preview instead of the entire thing now. Is there a to remedy this? We still have a lot of year and planting to go and I want to ensure I am on top of things – hence the purchase! Thank you so much for any help you can provide!
Michelle
Hi! Love your No Dig audiobook. It has renewed my interest in gardening. I can’t figure out mulches though. After spreading 15 cms of compost, should I cover the compost with wood shavings or bark chips? Same for the paths… wood shavings, composted bark or bark chips ?
Thank you Jan, I’m happy to hear that. Interesting question about mulches because the word is used in so many different contexts with different meanings.
My interpretation of the word mulch is any organic matter on the surface. Compost is a mulch, it’s covering the soil surface and works best when you put nothing on top of it. The surface of compost dries out somewhat in summer and that is fine.
For paths I like to spread a little compost say 1 inch, then a little woody material on top of any kind, in small pieces, about another inch. Have fun in your garden!
Hello Charles!
I apologize for the irrelevant question, but:
All ericaceous compost for blueberries available in my area contains peat, which I want to avoid. Would it be a bad idea to mulch blueberries with regular compost, because of the higher pH in the compost? Some say that regular compost ‘burns’ blueberries. What do you think?
Sincerely,
Nikolaj Holst, Denmark
Hi Nikolaj
I gave up trying to grow blueberries because my soil is alkaline and that’s exactly the problem. Compost and soil over pH about 6.5 means the plants stop growing and even die.
I see no option but using the peat compost and if it was me I would do that. There are far worse things going on in the world than using a bit of peat.
Hello Charles!
I apologize for the irrelevant question, but:
You write in your book to use ericaceous compost for blueberries, but everything available in my area contains peat, which I want to avoid. Some years ago I planted blueberries in pure sawdust as an experiment, and now I want to ‘top it’ with compost – would this be a bad idea to idea with blueberries, because of the higher pH in the compost? Some say that regular compost ‘burns’ blueberries. What do you think?
Sincerely,
Nikolaj Holst, Denmark
Hi Charles,
I’ve taken on my first allotment and in December I made 6 no dig beds with mushroom compost and covered with black plastic to kill off the weeds. During March/April I planted first and second earlies as well as main crop potatoes through the plastic. All seem to be growing well but the soil under the plastic feels very dry. Should I give each plant a good water or can I assume they are finding enough moisture deeper down?
Thank you for all your blogs/videos and advice. I’m thoroughly enjoying this new adventure into no dig gardening. What a revelation! With very best wishes Sandra
Hi Sandra
The weather is exceptional and although your potatoes are growing well, they will soon benefit from some water if you have it there, stick a hose through each hole. Or water generally and it flows mostly into the planting holes.
Hi, Charles, I am interested that you have planted tomatoes, in the small garden, next to potatoes. I thought it was not encouraged, as they are from the same family.
Well spotted.
“It is not encouraged”, by whom I wonder… !!
I see absolutely no reason to worry.
Potato harvest will be around 10th July then tomato plants have room to root further.
I’ve just watched your May video and noticed that you haven’t covered your carrots and parsnips from root fly. I thought now was the danger time. Not that I have many to cover! ONly 4 of my 9 rows of carrots came to anything and the parsnips didn’t emerge at all despite constant watering. I’m thinking of waiting until the weather changes to re-sow as it just feels to dry for them. Would you agree? Thank you!
I have some covered and some not covered. Find that the damage from root flies in June is less bad than October.
I would sow parsnipsany time in dry soil, then they will appear when (if!) it next rains.
Having just become the proud owner of a Charles Dowding Dibber (bought during the Alhampton Open Garden Day) I have been searching for information regarding the spacing markers on the Dibber? I can’t find anything on the site here except for a redirection to the Garden Imports website. The only thing they say is: “This latest model features grooves notched into the timber at precise intervals specified by Charles.” Are they forever to remain enigmatic? Would love to know how to use these secret markings!!
😂 Interesting thanks Simon, we are revamping the shop and shall add this info – bands at 6, 9, 12, 14in correspond to many common spacings eg multisown radish, all salad plants, multisown onions and celeriac respectively.
Thank you Charles. Mine has already seen some action and I was pleased to see how the end profile matches the module shape. Clever stuff!
Hi Charles, i’m In my first no dig spring and things are growing away well, although perhaps a bit behind you, i’m on the coast in north Lancs. The flea beetles have enjoyed my turnip leaves, but left my Calabrese alone, however the heads on the calabrese are small and loose. They didn’t seem ready to pick and they are now flowering. They certainly look nothing like shop bought calabrese. I’ve had a look around online and the only advice I found was that they need to be well watered? Have you any ideas on where i’ve gone wrong? I’ve written off my spring crop but had planned to grow a second crop later this year. Cheers Ian
Hello Ian, that sounds pretty good for a first spring. I’m pretty sure that your calabrese size is from a varietal issue, and many of the non-hybrids do something like you describe, in my experience. If you want the big, domed head, choose varieties such as Marathon, Ironman and Belstar. My plants are large and not yet heading.
Hi Charles, thanks for your reply, much appreciated, the Calabrese I was growing was a Thompson & Morgan variety ‘Green Sprouting ‘. I’ll have a look for one of the varieties you mention for my second crop.
Other than the Calabrese things are going really well 👍 you may remember I wrote to you recently about my Savoy cabbages that were running to seed (You pointed out that I’d sowed them too late) I lost a few, but 4 of them are hearting up and they are looking fantastic, I’m even using some of the large outer leaves in stir fry’s etc. So far no dig has been a big success and I,ve got a couple of friends started as well after spreading the word.
As I continue my no dig studies i’ve been reading the work of F C King ‘is Digging Necessary ‘ I assume you are aware of him? He talks a lot about using sawdust, is this something you’ve tried, or have a view on? Cheers Ian
All good to hear Ian.
I’m surprised by the savoys!
Yes F.C.King is the hero of mine. A well-known gardener and writer of books, yet his trials with and explanations about No Dig were pretty much ignored by the gardening establishment. That has motivated me to make more effort with social media, and reach enough people that this beautiful approach gets the attention it deserves.
Sawdust was a bit of a thing in the 1940s-70s, partly I think because there was no woodchip as we know it today.
King was also a great advocate of horse manure because that’s what he had access to, and he observed the wasteful results of using it when digging.
Hello Charles!
You write in your book to use ericaceous compost for blueberries, but everything available in my area contains peat, which I want to avoid. Some years ago I planted blueberries in pure sawdust as an experiment, and now I want to ‘top it’ with compost – would this be a bad idea to idea with blueberries, because of the higher pH in the compost?
And what do you say about herbs like thyme, rosemary and oregano, who commonly are said to like dry, nutrient-poor soil – can I use compost for these, and what ratio of compost to another material would you reccomend for these herbs to use in containers?
Thank you for your dedication to teaching others no-dig!
Nikolaj Holst, Denmark
Hello! I hate to ambush with a non-video related question, but I can’t seem to find another official method for contact other than commenting. In November I purchased the digital planting calendar, and it has been such an enormous help! I was definitely always too late with everything before that! My question is, up until about three weeks ago I could browse the entire thing whenever I wanted, any month and info. Now all of a sudden, all the months are blurred out with a logo over them except July. It’s like it’s showing a trial version or preview instead of the entire thing. Is there a way to remedy this? We still have a lot of year and planting to go and I want to ensure I am on top of things – hence the purchase! Thank you so much for any help you can provide!
Michelle
Hello! I hate to ambush with a non-video related question, but I can’t seem to find another official method for contact other than commenting. In November I purchased the digital planting calendar, and it has been such an enormous help! I was definitely always too late with everything before that! My question is, up until about three weeks ago I could browse theventire thing whenever I wanted, any month and info. Now all of a sudden, all the months are blurred out with a logo over them except July. It’s like it’s showing a trial version or preview instead of the entire thing now. Is there a to remedy this? We still have a lot of year and planting to go and I want to ensure I am on top of things – hence the purchase! Thank you so much for any help you can provide!
Michelle
Hi! Love your No Dig audiobook. It has renewed my interest in gardening. I can’t figure out mulches though. After spreading 15 cms of compost, should I cover the compost with wood shavings or bark chips? Same for the paths… wood shavings, composted bark or bark chips ?
Thank you Jan, I’m happy to hear that. Interesting question about mulches because the word is used in so many different contexts with different meanings.
My interpretation of the word mulch is any organic matter on the surface. Compost is a mulch, it’s covering the soil surface and works best when you put nothing on top of it. The surface of compost dries out somewhat in summer and that is fine.
For paths I like to spread a little compost say 1 inch, then a little woody material on top of any kind, in small pieces, about another inch. Have fun in your garden!